Breguet
2017: Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887, State of the Art
Eschewing the moon phase commonly found in a perpetual calendar watch, the 5887 follows the sun instead, with its headline feature being the running equation of time (“marchante”, for “walking”). Running/walking because in this instance, instead of displaying equation of time (the discrepancy between mean and apparent solar time) in a window or scale as the number of minutes to be added to/subtracted from the mean solar time to derive the apparent solar time, the 5887 has a separate minute hand to display apparent solar time in real time. A feature seen in clocks and pocket watches, the running equation of time made its wristwatch debut in sister-brand Blancpain’s Le Brassus Equation du Temps Marchante of 2004.
For a detailed explanation of equation of time, read ‘What is Equation of Time’ here.
Read also our in-depth look at the Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887, here.
But how does the 5887 stand out? For starters, by being in a very small field of running EOT wristwatches. And secondly, by the particular flavour of its execution, in coherently melding a host of contrary propositions.
The running EOT is a natural fit for a perpetual calendar, and much rarer than a moon phase. Something classic perhaps to house an ancient and esoteric complication. Yet the 5887 is, to put it briefly, thoroughly modern, inside out, in an almost steampunk yet dressy/sporty way. The ultra-flat tourbillon base movement features a titanium cage to keep the tourbillon spinning at a brisk 4Hz while maintaining an impressive 80 hours of power reserve, self-wound by a platinum-weighted peripheral rotor that leaves the movement engraving gloriously framed. The EOT cam is fabricated directly upon the sapphire disc using the LIGA process, with the beating heart of the cal. 581DPE in silicon: hairspring, escape wheel, down to the pallet jewels.
Has Breguet, like Odysseus of legend, got all the winds from every direction but one, in the bag? We think so.
Movement
Self-winding 581DPE with peripheral rotor; perpetual calendar; tourbillon; running equation of time; silicon balance spring; 4Hz; 80 hours power reserve
Case
43.9mm platinum or rose gold case; 11.75mm height; fluted caseband; water resistant to 100m
Strap
Alligator leather with folding clasp
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