Editor's Picks
The Alpha and Omega: What Was, What Is and What Is to Come
For Our Time
The “is” comes from the fact that rather than simply remaking a vintage watch, Omega has selected to create an all new reference with a blue and silver “Panda” colorway that has never before existed for the CK2998. The “is” is the demonstration of extraordinary subtle refinement such as the applied Omega symbol at 12 o’clock that sits just beneath a subtle guilloché-treated seconds track that adds a beautiful, subliminally rich detail. Then there is the incredible ultra-thin ceramic bezel, with luminous tachymeter scale (configured on the retro-cool 1,000 kmh/mph base), which in combination with the large luminous lollipop on the seconds hand makes it the only watch (along with a few other Speedmasters) capable of recording average speeds in low- or no-light conditions. And Omega does this all without shouting, preferring to innovate with its signature discreet charm.
As Omega President & CEO Raynald Aeschlimann says: “When you hold our watches in your hands, what you feel is the incredible passion we have for the brand. We are very much in touch with the vintage collecting community, we are very much in touch with the contemporary customer and we are always striving to be true to our history, even while pushing innovation for our watches at all levels.
“It’s for this reason that we adopted the Co-axial escapement – the greatest revolution in escapements in the modern era, created by one of watchmaking’s geniuses, George Daniels, radically reducing friction, increasing reliability and significantly extending service intervals for watches. And it’s the reason that we pioneered the technology for ceramic bezels with printed Super-LumiNova scales to radically extend the lifespan of bezels and provide a level of performance that did not exist in the watch industry related to legibility in all light conditions.” The result was that the watch sold out in seconds, and I had to pay well over retail for mine. I am apparently not over this yet.
Collectors’ Choice
What Aeschlimann omits to mention is that Omega is the creator of several of the most collectible sports watches in recent memory. In particular the Silver Snoopy Tribute to Apollo 13 released two years ago – one of the most charming timepieces in existence and currently trading at close to three times retail price on the aftermarket. Yes, many of us in the Revolution office are kicking ourselves for not scooping one up. It features a charming use of Charles M. Schulz’s Snoopy to remind us of the extraordinary heroism of the Apollo 13 astronauts and how, in 1970, they used an Omega Speedmaster for re-entry into the earth’s atmosphere after all on-board electronics failed. This amazing tribute features a luminous Snoopy in the running seconds subdial, declaring “failure is not an option,” while the seconds track at the perimeter of the dial reads “What could you do in 14 seconds?” referring to the precise amount of time calculated by astronaut Jack Swigert’s Speedmaster for the critical rocket burns that enabled the crew to return to earth unharmed.
Omega’s Vice President and Head of Products, Jean-Claude Monachon, explains: “We wanted to create a watch that was simultaneously vintage and yet incredibly modern both in material and techniques. A prime example is the way we laser-engraved every minute index and even the Omega logo. When combined with the applied Sedna gold hands and the hour markers, we felt we’d created something totally unique.”
Bond Street
The “was” and the “is” at Omega also refers to the brands extraordinary history with the world’s most famous spy: James Bond. And it was Bond that brought me to London most recently. Walking down the gangplank to a massive boat moored on the Thames, I took an abrupt right and was handed a glass of champagne, taking a moment to collect myself from the untypical heat that had descended on London. The boat took us down the river to the Tate Britain, where an exhibition of Omega’s rich history with James Bond had been curated. This was also where Omega unveiled its next watch created for the Bond franchise and named “The Commander’s Watch.”
Commander’s Performance
But the newly released Omega Seamaster Divers 300M is a different type of watch. Rather than being created explicitly for the screen, it is a meditation on the character of Bond and his service in the Royal Navy. It also recalls Omega’s extraordinary history with the British military. During the Second World War, it provided 110,000 pilots, naval officers and soldiers with timepieces on the orders of Britain’s Ministry of Defense. Upon viewing this timepiece that is designed in the colors of the Royal Navy ensign, Hemming declared, “I fought for Bond to wear an Omega because I wanted to change to a watch that I felt was appropriate for a naval commander to wear. My father had been in the RAF but was friendly with Navy men and I remember as a child one visiting us often, and he always wore this Omega, which fascinated me — this unusually sporty design that looked as though it was built for purpose.”
I suggest that Aeschlimann is doing similar things with Omega — connecting its incredible values to the audiences of today and tomorrow — and he reacts in typically modest fashion, saying, “We just want to make the most compelling watches on every level, in terms of design, technical innovation and value.” And it should be said that in terms of value, Omega has made a tradition of shaming the competition with incredible details such as the already mentioned luminous bezel on a watch that costs a fraction of many other modern sports chronographs. And during this conversation it becomes clear that “what is to come” is represented best at Omega by its dynamic CEO, because he clearly holds the key to the brand’s future in his very capable hands.