The SIHH closed last Friday and we are now selecting the loads photographs and videos we took during the meetings with the brands.
Last week I posted about Cartier’s Fine Watch Making Collection 2014, since the mainstream collection I only photographed last Friday. There were some remarks that there was not much news in the Cartier mainstream collection this year and that the focus was entirely on Fine Watch Making. This is only partly true. The Fine Watch Making Collection and the collection Métiers d’Art have indeed quite some offerings and just from a presentation point of view, it may have looked like that there was not that much news in the Mainstream collection, but what here was, is actually very good!
Talk of the town and I am really not exaggerating, was of course the Cartier Calibre Diver. Literal every journalist I spoke to, raved about this new diver watch. Then there are very smart looking new Tortue models. A real ‘hommage’ to the retired ‘Collection Privée’ series and last but not least the new 40mm Ballon Bleu models, that I find very attractive.
But let’s, for this article, start with the Calibre de Cartier Diver and keep the Tortue and Ballon Bleu series for a little later.
A watch that can be worn during swimming, like for instance the Pasha de Cartier and a real diver watch are two different worlds and the Calibre de Cartier Diver is for Cartier the first real and certified Diver watch, that can be trusted deep in the ocean. The Calibre Diver was developed to the ISO 6425 standard that applies to diver’s watches.
Cartier succeeded to keep the thickness to an absolute minimum since the height of this Diver is just 11mm and that makes it the slimmest diver watch in the world. 11 mm is pretty flat for a diver watch, when compared to a Rolex Submariner (and others), that has a height of 12,5mm or more. The back of the case is closed and has a tasteful simple engraving.
The bezel is self lubricating, thanks to the ADLC coating on the in- and outside and is unidirectional. ADLC is a coating that is harder than steel. Another fact; the bezel runs very smooth with an amazing sexy sound and makes 120 firm-sounding clicks.
The sapphire crystal is 1.2mm thicker than that of the regular ‘Calibre de Cartier’ model, to make sure it can withstand the water resistance of 300m, which is the same as the Submariner.
The dial of the Calibre Diver is deep black, partially snailed with XII in super luminova and the sword-shaped hands are covered with with super luminova as well. Very visible in low light or complete darkness. Very important deep in the water. Same sounds for the ‘Sub seconds at 6’, normally it is just a nice complication, for the owner of the Diver, it is also a constant indication that the watch still runs well.
The automatic movement of the Calibre de Cartier Diver is the 1904 MC, Cartier’s own automatic caliber that was first used in 2010. This caliber now powers the Calibre de Cartier watch, the Tank Anglaise, the Tank MC and is the base movement for several high end complications. Specifications: Total diameter: 25.6 mm Thickness: 4 mm, number of jewels: 27 balance: 28, 800 vibrations / hour Power reserve: 48 hours.
The Diver will be available in all steel, steel with a touch of gold and all gold. All three models are fitted with a cool and very supple rubber strap with an ardillon buckle and available from the Boutiques from May. From around September 2014, the steel gold and the all steel model will be available on bracelet as well. The bracelet of the Calibre de Cartier Diver is identical to the current Calibre bracelet.
–GEO is contributor of Revo-Online & Revolution Magazine and passionate about Cartier, independents and fine watchmaking,
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