Vintage
Fabergé and Tsar Quality
Vintage
Fabergé and Tsar Quality
The Fabergé eggs were first commissioned as an Easter gift from Tsar Alexander III to his consort the Empress Marie Feodorovna. After the Tsar’s death in 1894, his son Nicholas II continued the tradition, ordering a jewelled egg for his mother and one for his Empress Alexandra. These precious whimsies were deeply personal gifts known only to the Imperial family and the workshops of Peter Carl Fabergé, whose father Gustav had founded the St Petersburg jewellery house in 1842. Production ceased exactly a century ago in 1917 when the Russian Revolution swept the 300-year old Romanov dynasty from power.
The first egg, crafted in 1885 for the Empress Marie, was a series of surprises working on the model of a Russian doll: a white enamel egg that opened to reveal a golden egg yolk. Within the yoke was a multi-coloured golden hen with ruby-set eyes. The hen, a jewel box, contained a diamond Imperial crown in miniature and a ruby egg pendant. Fabergé’s ingenuity would be tested over the next 31 years as he was challenged to create ever-more elaborate jewelled eggs – symphonies of gold work, gem-setting, miniature painting, guilloché enamel and carved hard stones – with increasingly audacious surprises.
Treat Time
From their earliest inception, the Fabergé eggs incorporated clock-making and automata to amuse the vivacious Empress Marie. Made by Fabergé chief jeweller Augustus Holmström in 1887, the Third Imperial Easter Egg is a ridged yellow-gold beauty standing on a tripod pedestal encircled by gold garlands, diamond-set bows and cabochon sapphires. The egg opens to reveal a Vacheron Constantin lady’s watch with a white enamel dial and openwork diamond-set gold hands. The clock face is set on a hinge to stand upright.
The Third Imperial Easter Egg is an exceptional Fabergé design in miniature standing only 8.2cm high. It is also the world’s most expensive clock with a story worthy of a romantic novel. Though the Dowager Empress escaped to the Crimea with one Fabergé egg when the Revolution erupted, the rest of her treasures were removed from her Anichkov Palace in St Petersburg in 1917 and taken to Moscow’s Kremlin Armoury. Many were sold as part of Stalin’s “Treasures into Tractors” initiative, including the Third Imperial Easter Egg. For the rest of the century, the egg was considered lost until 2012 when an American buyer approached London’s Fabergé expert Wartski having bought the piece at a flea market for its scrap value at £8,000. Wartski, whose chairman Emanuel Snowman had bought nine Imperial eggs from the Bolshevik regime between 1925 and 1935, acquired the Third Imperial Easter Egg for a collector for a rumoured £20 million.
Egg Timers
Fabergé’s first fine watch collection was unveiled at Baselworld in 2015 and won the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Mech Ladies category for the Lady Compliquée Peacock model that features an ingenious integrated movement created for Fabergé by Geneva-based independent master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and his company Agenhor. The starting point for the Lady Compliquée Peacock was the Imperial Easter Egg made in 1908 for the Empress Marie comprising a carved, jewelled rock crystal egg that splits opens to reveal an intricately enamelled gold peacock standing on a golden bough. The bird is automated to strut and display its feathers. Now in the private Sandoz Collection, the Peacock Egg is rarely exhibited.
The technique of overlaid platinum relief can be replicated with any bespoke motif a customer might wish to commission. In 2016 Fabergé set two masterpieces for the Dalliance collection: Lady Libertine I & II. The extraordinary abstract designs were inspired by the Gemfields-owned Kagem emerald mine in Zambia. A rose-gold case with 1.84cts of brilliant cut diamonds surrounds a central dome representing Zambian terrain in snow-set polished and rough hand carved emeralds. Gold filigree outlining describes the banks of the region’s rivers. For Lady Liberty II, a white-gold case surrounds a dome set with 2.22cts of hand-shaped strands of satin-finished emeralds accented by white gold and diamonds.
The Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ is a handsome, contemporary watch with the element of surprise that would doubtless have enthralled the Imperial Russian royal family. The Fabergé eggs are a masterclass in design that few have the skill – let alone the authority – to work from as a blueprint for contemporary gem-setting and watchmaking. After the bravura display of the Lady Compliquée Peacock, the worlds of watches and jewellery can only wait to see where Fabergé’s imagination will take the Mosaic, the Blue Serpent or the Lily of the Valley designs into the future.