The ever-attractive Slim d’Hermès series brings along an enchanting perpetual calendar, featuring a case that combines titanium and either platinum or rose gold.
Since its debut in Baselworld 2015, the Slim d’Hermès collection has kind of flown under the radar and that’s a shame. Undoubtedly, this collection has a lot going on, stylistically speaking, and it’s one of the most attractive designs in today’s horology. Pretty much every year, the series has grown a bit and this end of 2020, we are delighted to see a very cool interpretation of their perpetual calendar.
One way of defining the Slim style is like a sort of new “Art Deco”, where minimalism and function are just embellished enough to provide some kind of warmth and movement to the function. In the case of these two new Slim references, it all begins with the impeccably round case, with its angular, tapered lugs and the perfect polishing of the surfaces that kind of look that it was cut out of the purest of mirrors.
Indeed, the fishing is paramount for this model, and more so now that Hermès decided to execute it in unusual metal combinations: titanium and platinum and titanium and rose gold. In both references, the caseband —lugs included— and the caseback are pure titanium, while the bezel, crown and pushers are in the most precious of metals.
As per the design directives, restraint is shown even in this complication, with the watch measuring a very nice 39.5 mm. And to boot, the watch is truly… slim (sorry!). Thanks to the very slender mechanics, this perpetual calendar just raises 4 mm from the back of your wrist.
Inside the case, we find the delightful vectorized anthracite dial, with an outer hour disc that hosts the awesome Slim numerals —a registered design, conceived by Philippe Apeloig, the maison master of design—, which in this watch are of the transferred type, wearing a silvery hue.
The design of this everlasting calendar is clear and legible by all counts. The moonphase (at 3 o’clock) is made out of mother of pearl (a nice touch) and is depicted against an aventurine sky. This little detail is worthy of ours of contemplation and a wink to those who want to be surprised a bit even with the most elegant of designs.
Date, month, dual-time and leap year indications are joyfully displayed on various subsidiary counters throughout the dial. Date is, curiously enough, at 12 o’clock. The months and leap year displays share space at 9. And at six lies the awesome and kind of crazy white twelve-hour indication with its seemingly spread-out numerals and its day and night window just above it. Yet more proof that Hermès is still having lots of fun with the Slim.
The ultra-thin automatic Manufacture H1950 movement (just 2.6 mm thick!) of this perpetual calendar is finely finished, adorned with a ‘sprinkling of Hs’—visible though the caseback— and meticulously hand-bevelled. The thinness of the design demanded the use of a micro-rotor for rewinding purposes. The single-barrel of the caliber is good for up to 42 hours of power reserve.
Either of this Slim d’Hermès perpetual calendars comes with an alligator strap with a pin-type buckle that is obviously coordinated with the precious metal of the case.
Mechanical self-winding; cal. H1950 featuring rewinding by micro-rotor and an Agenhor module for the perpetual calendar; hours and minutes; day, date, moonphase, 12-hour with date and night indication; 21,600 bph; 42-hour power reserve.
Titanium-and-platinum or titanium-and-rose gold; 39.5 mm in diameter, sapphire case back; 30-meter water resistance
Matt graphite alligator leather with pin buckle and coordinated metal, depending the case finishing