The town of Glashütte was deliberately established as the center of fine German watchmaking back in 1845, and to this day it remains the heart of German-made high-end horology. During WWII and the separation of Germany, the industry continued under a single company, “Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe” or G.U.B. Post-reunification, G.U.B. was privatized as Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb, which came to be known as Glashütte Original.
The brand has continued to create timepieces with the iconic styles of German fine watchmaking. This year, it’s introducing a new collection for the brand, the Spezialist, a line aimed at creating fine tool and instrument timepieces. The first in the collection is the SeaQ, a diver’s watch that’s inspired by a model called the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969.
The Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 was the brand’s first diver’s watch, equipped with the caliber 75. It was dedicated to professional divers and emphasized reliability, robustness and high performance — three key features of Spezimatic watches.
The new SeaQ and the limited edition SeaQ 1969 specifically is based on the watch and as a jubilee commemorative. The new watch is sized up from its 1969 predecessor, to 39mm from 36mm. Glashütte Original stayed close to the original model in terms of design, but the construction is completely different, using domed sapphire glass and ceramic inserts in the unidirectional bezel.
The movement used is the modern caliber 39-11 and the watch’s luminous elements apply a vintage lume SuperLuminova paint to reinforce its vintage presence. The 50th anniversary limited edition is restricted to 69 pieces, with green SuperLuminova-coated hands and a historic dial inscription that closely mirrors its 1969 version.
The engraving on the caseback of the watch is of the trident of Neptune and the double G logo with waves engraved around the trident — exactly 20 waves that represent the 20 ATM water resistance of the watch. “DIN 8306” is also engraved on the case back, which correlates to the ISO 6425 standard. Three strap options are available for the SeaQ and SeaQ 1969: a rubber strap inspired by the pattern of the original watch, a woven nylon synthetic strap, exclusively made for Glashütte Original, and a newly developed bracelet, which is lighter and equipped with Glashütte Original’s ergonomic fine adjustment system.
Another model introduced with the SeaQ is the SeaQ Panorama Date, which offers a large date window on the dial at four o’clock and comes in two dial options, in black or blue. The blue sunray dial has applied indexes and hands in white SuperLuminova, and the black dial uses green SuperLuminova.
The watch is powered by Glashütte Original’s calibre 36-13, an automatic 4Hz timekeeper with a 100-hour power reserve with a silicon hairspring. The movement has been tested to ensure that it performs well underwater, with the bayonet mounting system to ensure the movement is properly secured against shock. You can expect more in the SeaQ range later this year, and the Spezialist Collection will continue to grow with more instrument watches to come.
(Main photo image shot by Sumit Nag.)