One of the finest releases of last year was Breguet’s Classique 5177 — a modern take on their classic design with a rich blue grand feu dial. (Read about the Classique 5177 here) This year they’ve upped the ante by adding that most Breguet of complications, the tourbillon. Meet the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367.
First, let’s talk about the case. The Classique line is one of Breguet’s best-loved, and that’s due in no small part to the purity of the case, which lives up to its name. The deceptively simple circular case — 41mm across of heavy platinum, with a fluted case middle and straight up-and-down welded lugs. The appeal of this case is even greater thanks to its extra flat nature, measuring a decidedly svelte 7.45mm from top to bottom.
The appeal goes well beyond the case. There’s also the dial (what a dial) and the movement (again, superb) to consider. The dial is, as I mentioned up top, a grand feu affair, in dark blue. Regal and restrained navy blue — a hue that adds interest without ostentation. The hands and Arabic numerals are — no surprises here — in the Breguet style, and the powdered silver is particularly striking and surprisingly modern against the blue. There are numerous other fine details to capture the eye — the fine detailing of the minute track, the secret signature (find it, we’ll wait), and the slightly off-centered dial layout. All these elements make for an elegant dress watch, the sort of thing at which Breguet excels.
Another of Breguet’s areas of expertise is also very much in evidence here: the tourbillon. The 581 caliber is Breguet’s thinnest tourbillon, and the automatic mechanism measures a slender 3mm. The non-symmetrical placement of the cage is, again, a pleasingly modern touch. It’s also not the only move to modernity for this old complication. The cage itself is titanium, and the balance spring is silicon. The single, high energy barrel gives 80 hours of power reserve, wound with a peripheral rotor, to ensure the view of tourbillon is uninterrupted. Also unobscured is the fine hand-finishing on the movement. While the front of the watch is the image of high-end restraint, the movement side shows that Breguet isn’t afraid to let its proverbial hair down, albeit in a classical way.
Extra-thin self-winding Caliber 581; 80-hour power reserve; barrel mounted on roller bearings; inverted lateral lever escapement with silicon horns; 4 Hz; silicon balance spring; tourbillon with titanium carriage; Small seconds on the tourbillon axis.
Platinum, 41mm diameter, 7.45mm thickness; fluted caseband; sapphire crystal and caseback; water-resistant to 3 bars.
Blue alligator with a triple-folding platinum buckle