Debuting back in 2017, the Chopard L.U.C. XP has always been a watch geared towards those with an appreciation of the finer things in life. Steel, slender and exceptionally well-made this 40mm dress watch was already primed for a pairing with a perfectly fitted cuff. And that’s before you factor in the fact that Chopard’s men’s watches are always made with the prefix ‘gentle’ in mind.
So it should come as no real surprise to see Chopard looking out from their Swiss mountain home to warmer climes, specifically the sartorially steeped Neapolitan peninsula, and the myriad world-class tailors who call it home. The tailor in question is Kiton Ateliers, founded in 1968 by Ciro Paone, and has been embodying that indefinable attitude of sprezzatura ever since.
The sartorial tie-ins on the Chopard L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton are not too hard to spot — perhaps most apparent is the strap, which is Kiton fabric, in grey and black cashmere, backed with bright red alligator to ensure it lasts. Red is something that pops up all over this watch, you can see it on the contrasting stitch, cardinal positions on the minute track, and a prominent red button motif — the logo of Kiton. Beyond that, the entire dial is a houndstooth pattern in black and grey.
Given the tailoring angle, it would be easy to assume that the Il Sarto Kiton would look like (if you’ll pardon the pun) a died-in-the-wool dress watch, but in fact, it’s much more modern in appearance. That is thanks to the beadblasted black DLC-coated case, along with the subtly textured dial with vivid rose gold hands and markers, which adds a much more modern, youthful appeal to the sometimes staid genre. This should give you a solid indicator as to who Chopard is hoping this watch will appeal to.
Of course, if the black case and textile strap is the icing on the cake, the cake itself is the excellent L.U.C 96.53-L, which, in addition to looking stunning with the well-finished Geneva-striped bridges. The movement is also technically impressive, only 3.3mm thick, with micro-rotor, and 58 hours of autonomy off two barrels, impressive for a movement so svelte.
In watch circles its not uncommon to define a dress watch as the one you wear with a suit, and I can’t think of a watch more suitable for dressing up than the Chopard L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton.
L.U.C 96.53-L, mechanical with automatic winding, twin barrels and tungsten alloy micro-rotor with 58 hours of power reserve.
Case and Dial
Beadblasted DLC-coated steel case, 40mm across, 7.2mm thin and water-resistant to 30m. Black and grey dial in houndstooth motif inspired by Kiton fabric.
Kiton fabric strap made of grey and black cashmere, red alligator and DLC-coated pin buckle.
Limited editions of 100 pieces