De Bethune
Introducing the De Bethune Kind of Two
Nowhere do you feel these more strongly in horology than in the realm of independent watchmaking. That’s why when I checked with many of my favourite independent watchmakers, ranging from Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of URWERK, to the Grönefeld brothers to Richard and Maria Habring, and even Stefan Kudoke, all of them were facing the happy challenge of trying to supply adequate watches for the surging global demand. I feel that this will remain one of the prevailing collecting themes as in a world over inundated with marketing messages, we seek out those timepieces crafted with the greatest authenticity and genuineness.
Independent, Unsung Hero
Of course, all of this would be irrelevant if De Bethune watches were not beautifully designed. But the fact is that they are absolutely ravishing. They express a design identity that is wholly unique and that manages to be part science-fiction futurism, part 19th-century marine chronometer, with a refinement in finish that is singular. De Bethune single-handedly elevated the titanium case from something related to a functional tool watch into a canvas for what can only be described as ethereal beauty. So incredible is the mirror polishing of the brand’s titanium cases and dials that their seemingly fathomless reflection of light reminds me of Anish Kapoor’s seminal works. De Bethune also introduced us to all-new aesthetic concepts such as the vivid flame Kind of Blue watches, of which I am honoured to own one of the limited edition tourbillons.
Rather, for all their beauty and credibility, they are a bit reserved, understated and overly modest in their communication. Why? To me, this has to do with the personality of the brand’s founder, Denis Flageollet, whom I’ve consistently said is one of watchmaking’s greatest geniuses. However, his innate character is one of extreme modesty and shyness. Indeed, in direct contrast to several of the more successful independent watchmakers whose message to the world basically implies that they are geniuses, the very fact that I’ve called Flageollet a genius has now made him painfully uncomfortable. But I have resolved to promote De Bethune unabashedly throughout this year, because at a time when many of our eyes have turned back to independent watchmaking, it is important to understand how profoundly rich and emotively poetic every De Bethune watch is in terms of its vast authenticity and beauty.
Double Identity and Purpose
Says Pierre Jacques, the brand’s CEO, “This oscillator is the perfect expression of who De Bethune is. From a technical perspective, it is a brilliant design because it creates an extremely light free-sprung balance but that is aerodynamically efficient and also has very good inertia. But then from an aesthetic perspective, crafted in flame-blued titanium and platinum, it is also a work of sculptural beauty. While for most brands the balance wheel is an afterthought, for us it is the focus of intense creativity.”
Thin, Light and Stealthy
Now let’s look at the cage of this incredible tourbillon. Made from titanium and weighing just 0.18g — for your reference this means it is lighter than a single raindrop — it is the lightest tourbillon cage in the world. In combination with the oscillator, it means that the entire tourbillon mechanism is ultra-light, which allows De Bethune to accelerate its rotational speed so that it completes a full rotation in just 30 seconds. What is the practical advantage of this? Says Flageollet, “By averaging the errors caused by gravity on the regulating organ twice as frequently, we are able to elevate the chronometric performance of our tourbillon.” One detail that I have always loved about De Bethune’s tourbillon is that for all its lightness, Flageollet has also integrated a seconds hand into the cage. Why? So that you can actually measure its chronometric performance. I’ve always considered any tourbillon without a seconds hand either on the dial or integrated into the cage a total cop-out. I mean, you have created a device meant to improve the accuracy of the watch but removed any means of easily measuring its timing performance.
The rest of the dial on the tourbillon side of the watch is wonderfully textured with a play on levels and volumes focused around De Bethune’s signature delta-shaped bridge that retains the jewels for the watch’s twin barrels. Another nice detail is how the watch uses the circular track for the hour indexes also as the bridge for the tourbillon. Already in the brand’s magnificent DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon, you had a shift toward this integration, but in this watch, the tourbillon bridge was still a unique separate component.
The result is a watch which, as a symbol of everything I love about De Bethune, charms, seduces and impresses.
DB Kind of Two Tourbillon
Reference: DBK2TV1
Functions: Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, Seconds, Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium
Movement: DB2579
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2579
Number of parts: 256
Jewelling: 32 rubis
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities:
– Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016)
-“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
– Silicon escape wheel
– Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment:
– Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
– Polished and chamfered barrel bridge, with shot-blasted stages
– Polished and chamfered titanium minute bridge with microlight decoration
– Hand snailed barrels
– Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand
Contemporary single-sided display
Display:
– Hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours and minutes with polished inserts
– Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Dial:
– Hour ring and 30” polished titanium dial with shot-blasted stages
– Blued polished titanium hour-markers
– Silvered and relief minute dial
Classic reverse side display
Display:
– Hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours, minutes and seconds
Dial:
– Dial silvered and relief, with convex levels and guilloché central part
Case and strap
Case material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 42.8 mm
Case thickness: 9.5 mm
Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o’clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case
Lugs:
– Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
– With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side
Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 30m
Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium
Price: 215,000 CHF[/td_block_text_with_title]