Some days it seems like the wrists of the ultra-rich are awash with ultra-high-end mega watches. But even amongst the Mille’s and Lange’s, Greubel Forsey stands out.
It’s not just the design — which, let’s be honest, is a polarising affair. The quality of every single element: design, construction, finishing — all are exceptional. This is true of any Greubel Forsey, even more, true when it comes to the QP à Équation. First unveiled in 2015, the QP à Équation is an incredible, complex affair — that much is apparent just looking at the dial. And speaking of dials, it’s the dark chocolate gold dial, along with the red gold case, those are the new elements here — and they certainly add impact to an already impactful timepiece.
By Greubel Forsey’s reckoning this watch has 15 indications. Are you counting along? There are the central hours and minutes, along with small seconds. Then there’s power reserve (72 hours), up near two o’clock. In the vast, wordy disc at four, we get the day, large date and month. There’s the tourbillon 24 secondes, a characteristic Greubel Forsey feature, positioned at a 25-degree angle for optimal chronometric benefits. But, let’s not get too distracted here and stick to the list.
There’s a 24-hour indicator that’s integrated into the calendar, for all your rapid adjustment needs. There’s also a red zone on this 24-indicator letting you know when you most definitely should not be fiddling with complex calendar mechanisms. On this note, there’s the crown function indicator just above three. H/M indicates the crown will change the time, QP the perpetual calendar. Oh, and in this mode, each turn of the crown will advance three days, and you can also adjust the calendar both ways. Handy.
The last dial-side indication is that QP staple, the leap year indicator near six o’clock. Flip this sizeable (43.5mm by 16mm thick) gold beauty and — in addition to some of the best finishing (honestly, that tremblage on the large plate is to die for) — you get even more indications. The equation of time is there in all its colourful beauty, making you feel smarter, just knowing how it works. And the year disc rounds out the functionality.
On the mechanics alone this watch is already a tour de force, a watchmaking equivalent of “because it’s there”, George Mallory’s rationale for wanting to scale Mount Everest. But combine that with a level of finish that wouldn’t look out of place on Mount Olympus, and that rich new colour palette, and you’ve got a watch that’s fit for the gods.
Manual winding, with 72 hours of power reserve, 3Hz frequency, tourbillon inclined at 25 degrees, two fast-rotating barrels running in series, variable inertia balance wheel with gold screws, balance spring with Phillips terminal curve and Geneva-style stud.
5N red gold, 43.5mm diameter by 16mm tall.
Brown alligator with red gold folding clasp.