Audemars Piguet
Material World: Audemars Piguet’s Pioneering Approach to Material Innovation (Part 1 of 2)
Actually while we’re at it, the watch could feature a bezel, made from Adamantium, which unlike the naturally occurring Virbanium was cooked up in a lab to be the world’s hardest and most indestructible metal. Yes, it’s the material of choice for Wolverine’s claws and yes his skeleton is also coated in it, making his capacity to resurrect from the most brutal beat down veritably Lazarus-like. And woe be to those who forget this. SNIKT!
But trust me if these two superhero grade metals were real, then by now Audemars Piguet would have made a Royal Oak Offshore from them, such has been the fabled Le Brassus manufacture’s pioneering status in alternate material research and implementation over the past two and half decades.
The point is that once Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet were considered to be the so-called Swiss high watchmaking Holy Trinity. But somehow along the way, AP cut loose, became the leader in audacious disruptive design while simultaneously blazing a path beyond the traditional luxury material lexicon of gold and platinum, making it arguable the most exciting watch brand around. AP has never been afraid to be a lightning rod for contemporary aesthetics. The following is a retrospective of AP’s role in material innovation.
Steel: Rethinking a Base Metal
It was the ultimate in adaptability equally at home at Marie Helene de Rothschild’s Surrealist Ball held the same year or ensconced in the Hotel du Cap’s swimming pool. Audemars Piguet played the Richard Mille game way before Mille came on the scene, by pricing the Royal Oak at the staggering sum of 3,750 Swiss Francs. To put this in context a few years earlier in 1968 you could have bought a platinum Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, also designed by Gerald Genta, for the same amount. The brand enhanced the notoriety of the watch and its cost with the provocative advertising campaign, “Steel on the Outside, Gold on the Inside,” referencing the watch movement Caliber 2121’s solid gold rotor.
Tantalum: Blue-blooded Baptism into the High-Tech Age
Ok, this one may sound like it was created by the writers at Marvel Comics but Tantalum, named for Greek mythological villain Tantalus is very real and Audemars Piguet was the first brand to feature it in a high luxury watch. It is one of the most resistant metals in the periodic table and can be immersed in acid with no ill effects. It is dense but of medium surface hardness and can be alloyed to create parts for jet engines, nuclear reactors and missiles.
One of the earliest adopters of the Royal Oak was King Juan Carlos of Spain. Seeking to create a stealthed-out version of his favorite watch he gave a Royal Oak to his gunsmith to attempt bluing it with the same technique used for his hunting rifle barrels. The results were not up to his expectations and finally he reached out to Audemars Piguet who mulled it over and came up with the idea with using tantalum because of its natural dark grey blue lustre for his watch.
Titanium: The Essence of High Performance
Steel was of course the material of choice in 1993 when the herculean Royal Oak Offshore was born out the mind of mad man genius Emmanuel Gueit. (to read this story click here) At 42 mm in diameter, with a stack height of 15.5 mm and featuring a soft iron inner cage to shield the movement from magnetism, on its steel bracelet the resulting timepiece was titanic in appearance and bombastic in gravitas and weighed almost a kilogram.
Today titanium is used ubiquitously throughout the watch industry, however at the time in the Swiss watch world only IWC and Panerai had used titanium as a material for watches. IWC had in collaboration with Porsche Design created the world’s first titanium watches from 1980. And while those timepieces are some of the most historically significant and collectable in particular the Ocean 2000s used by the German military, looking at these cases you can see they are relatively simple in execution, devoid of any great embellishment or decorative charm. Panerai launched its first titanium wristwatch the PAM 36 in 1998 (with a case also made at Donze Baume) as an alternative to the cool looking but ultimately fragile PVD coated steel watches from the band’s Pre-Vendome era, but it was also, from a perspective of finish, relatively simple.
One the other hand, Audemars Piguet’s titanium watches showed the same level of finish we have come to expect, particularly in the level of polish and crisp facets of the famous Royal Oak bezel. Over the past 25 years AP has consistently created some of our favorite Offshores using this material.
Titanium has continued to be used for both the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models and in each instance brings a higher level of comfort due to its light weight. Titanium was combined to stunning effect with a platinum bezel and smoky fume dials for 2018 Royal Oak limited edition collection resulting in some of the most sought after timepieces on the modern market.
Revolution’s favourtie Titanium Royal Oak Offshores