Elsa Schiaparelli, Italian fashion designer, once famously said, “In difficult times, fashion is always outrageous”. Max Büsser, the creative force behind MB&F, does not disappoint with his brilliantly complex and feminine, three-dimensional horological statement piece.
In 2019, Max assembled an All Star cast of haute horology friends, to create MB&F’s first ever watch for ladies, called the Legacy Machine FlyingT. Even though the watch was based on the round-cased Legacy Machine series, the case was completely redesigned with a smaller diameter and slimmed down lugs. In the same year, FlyingT was recognized by the watch industry peers as the Best Ladies Complication at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), also known as the Oscars of watchmaking.
On the heels of a successful launch, MB&F has added three new references to the FlyingT in 2020. Earlier in the year were two limited editions in red gold and platinum, featuring guilloche dial plates made by Kari Voutilainen, devoid of any diamonds for a more unisex appeal.
Now MB&F presents an elegant 18k white gold case decorated with diamonds, with a dial plate in blue lapis lazuli. The deep-blue dial has a semblance of being sprinkled with specks of gold, like a blue sky flecked with the golden glitter of the sun.
The dial on the plate is positioned at 7 o’clock position displaying the hours and minutes with a pair of elegant serpentine hands. The dial is also inclined at a 50-degree tilt so that the time can be discretely read by the wearer.
Visible through the high dome sapphire crystal is a vertical, three-dimensional automatic movement, developed in-house by MB&F. A 60-second flying tourbillon is mounted above the movement, with a single diamond affixed on top of the tourbillon cage that rotates with the flying tourbillon.
On the back of the case is a massive red gold rotor in the shape of a three-dimensional sun with carved out sunbeams, providing FlyingT with four days of power reserve.
Recounting the inspiration behind the concept of FlyingT, Max Büsser states, “I wanted LM FlyingT to possess the epitome of femininity as reflected by the women in my life, particularly my mother. It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality. The column-like structure of the flying tourbillon was very important to me as I felt very strongly that women form the pillar of humanity. At the same time, there is another layer of meaning coming in from the sun-shaped rotor, which incorporates the element of life-giving, a source of sustenance which we gravitate towards and around.”
Three-dimensional vertical automatic movement with 100 hours of power reserve, 280 components, 30 jewels, 2.5hz (18,00 bph) frequency. Central 60-second flying tourbillon, red gold three-dimensional rotor in shape of the sun.
18k white gold and diamond, 38.5mm wide by 20mm long. Total approximately 1.7ct of diamonds (120 on the case, 21 on the buckle, 1 on top of the tourbillon cage and 26 on the crowns). Crown on left for winding, and crown for time-setting on right. Rated to 3ATM.
MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT Lapis Lazuli in white gold and diamonds is priced at CHF 125,000 + VAT (USD 138,000 / EUR 118,000 + tax).