Parmigiani Fleurier has kept itself busy this year, first with the launch of the classy Toric Tourbillon Slate and the Tonda 1950 Tourbillon Double Rainbow, and now, for the first time ever, its first luxury sports watch model with an integrated bracelet — the Tonda GT.
There has, for some time now, been a surge in brands making integrated bracelet sport watches, but Parmigiani Fleurier, who made its name in complicated dress watches with high craftsmanship and finishing (and prices to match), never succumbed to the demands of the market. Until now that is. But it’s not a bad thing. The new Tonda GT marks a new direction for the brand in terms of both form and price, opening up a new category the brand had not explored, and at a price point that is much easier to swallow for collectors both old and new.
The Tonda GT line debuts in three designs; the Tonda GT is a time-and-date model, available in both steel or rose gold, and the Tondagraph GT is a chronograph and annual calendar model, available in steel. The collection is brand new, but the design codes are inspired by Parmigiani’s past creations. The case shape comes from the Tonda Chronor watch, which was awarded the Chronograph Watch Prize from the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017. For the new line, Parmigiani worked with watch designer Dino Modolo to reimagine the case with updated lugs and an integrated bracelet that prioritises comfort. The fluted bezel is recognisably a design from the Toric collection, and the dial, finished with the traditional “clou triangulaire” guilloché pattern, is a signature of Parmigiani Fleurier.
The Tondagraph GT
The Tondagraph GT is powered by the PF403 automatic calibre, and features an annual calendar and a chronograph, two of watchmaking’s most desirable complications. It is a rather unusual combo compared to the perpetual calendar, but at a much lesser price, it’s an appealing one, and the annual calendar only requires one adjustment per year in February.
There is a lot of information displayed on the dial, including two sub-dials for the chronograph function at 6 and 9 o’clock, and a big-date aperture at 12 o’clock. The sub-dial at 3 o’clock displays the running seconds in two tracks where the shorter end of the hand counts from 0 to 30 seconds and the longer end counts from 30 to 60 seconds. This is also rather unusual, but makes space for the month display, in a vibrant orange for added legibility. The 42mm watch is water-resistant to 100 metres, and comes with a screw-down crown. The power reserve is at 45 hours. Through the open caseback, the fine Côtes de Genève stripes can be found, as well as the 22K gold rotor. In steel with a sleek black dial on a rubber strap or integrated bracelet, the Tondagraph GT is limited to 200 pieces.
Self-winding calibre PF043, hours, minutes small seconds, annual calendar and chronograph, power reserve of 48 hours
42mm in diameter, 13.7mm thick, stainless steel, water resistant to 100 metres
Black with clou triangulaire guilloché, rhodium-plated applied indexes with black luminous coating
Black rubber strap or stainless steel with folding clasp
The Tonda GT
The Tonda GT comes in steel and black dial or in rose gold with a blue dial. This watch is the simpler three-hander version that also features big-date at 12 o’clock. Like the Tondagraph GT, the small seconds (at 6 o’clock) also displays the running seconds with a twist. Instead of running in a full circle, the seconds are indicated through two tracks in a half-arc shape.
The automatic calibre PF044 powers the Tonda GT, which is also finely finished, with a power reserve of 45 hours, water resistance to 100 metres via a screw-down crown. On the integrated bracelet, the Tonda GT is almost dress-watch like, but fit it on a rubber strap and you’ve fully transitioned to the territory of casual sporty elegance.
Both the Tonda GT models are also limited editions, with 250 pieces in steel and 150 pieces in rose gold.
Says Davide Traxler, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, “This is yet another step forward for Parmigiani Fleurier as it continues to evolve and innovate. The new Tonda GT line, with its more casual shape and attractive price point, reflects current market needs and is, at the same time, distinctively Parmigiani.”
Self-winding calibre PF044, hours, minutes, small seconds and big date, power reserve of 48 hours
42mm in diameter, 11.2mm thick, stainless steel or rose gold, water resistant to 100 metres
Black (in stainless steel version) or blue (in rose gold version), with clou triangulaire guilloché, rhodium-plated applied indexes with black luminous coating
Black or blue rubber strap or matching metal bracelet with folding clasp