There are gold watches, and there’s the Patek Philippe 5270/1R: where one would expect from Patek Philippe a timepiece with just a touch more flash from a reined expression in gold, there is a slack-jaw moment when first confronted with how the watchmaker is serving up gold in flaming spadefuls here.
The ref. 5270 clocked a couple of significant firsts when it was introduced in 2011: descended from Patek Philippe’s legendary line of perpetual calendar chronographs, the 5270 is the first in the family to sport an in-house movement, and is the largest at 41mm.
In red gold with stark contrast from its ebony dial, 5270/1R’s presence is magnified beyond its already large case diameter, while yet more is heaped on by its massive bracelet in matching metal. Patek Philippe’s hand-finished ‘goutte’ (French for ‘droplet’) bracelet practically drips luxury, flowing around one’s wrist with the same seamlessness as it is integrated into the case. To maintain the visual continuity of case and bracelet, Patek Philippe has even integrated calendar correctors into the bracelet links adjoining the case. Also in rose gold are the hands and hour markers (chronograph hands distinguished by sandblast finish), as well as the framing of the windows and apertures for the calendar displays.
In comparison, the no-less desirable 5270P-001 with platinum case and salmon dial that was also released this year is far more subtle; as is a 2015 model in rose gold matched with silvered dial and leather strap. But to live large, one would go with the 5270/1R.
In-house manual-wind CH 29-535 PS Q perpetual calendar and chronograph, 65-hour power reserve, 4hz, Patek Philippe Seal
41mm rose gold case with interchangeable solid/display caseback, 12.4mm height, water resistant to 30m
Rose gold ‘goutte’ bracelet with integrated calendar correctors