Dive watches are probably the most popular type of watch among enthusiasts today, yet relatively few aficionados know of ISO 6425. It sets out the requirements that must be met before a watch can officially be called a diver. The guidelines cover water resistance, underwater legibility, shock and magnetic resistance, air and water pressure, thermal shocks, ease of use, strap attachment strength, and crown, bezel and push button strength, and more.

Collectors are often surprised to learn that only a handful of watches actually meet the standards required by the ISO to put word “Diver” on a watch. One reason for this is cost. ISO 6425 requires that each and every watch must be tested to 150% of its rated depth before leaving the factory. That takes time, and requires special equipment.

Last year at SIHH, an unlikely brand, Cartier, launched a new diver that satisfies ISO 6425. This year, the scene will be repeated at Baselworld with the release of the new Gucci Diver. Yes, I said Gucci.

Basel 2015 Gucci Dive

The 45mm-case is available in stainless steel and in 18k pink gold, each with black PVD accents. It’s water resistant to 300 meters. The sapphire crystal includes an anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Both models are fitted with a matte black dial with a power reserve indicator at 5 o’clock and a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. The date indication appears at 1:30. (This last bit is a big hint at what lies behind the dial.)

If the dial layout looks familiar, that’s because this new watch is powered by the GP3300 automatic-winding movement. That’s GP as in Girard-Perregaux . Gucci is leveraging its Kering Group family connection to create a premium watch segment within the Gucci brand.

The steel version will retail for $8,600, and the pink gold model will be priced at $12,600.

 

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