Opinion
Spark Joy: Luxury and Ephemera
Here, we spotlight a few brands who place craftsmanship first and foremost and create objects that connect with you today and outlast trends of tomorrow.
Quintessentially Italian
Marol used to be one of those small ateliers which made exceptional products but are so obscure that unless you were in the know, you would never have heard of them. The small-scale atelier based in Bologna has been quietly making shirts since it was established in 1959 by Rosanna Saguatti and her husband Luciano, and today is run by their daughter Manuela Vignudelli. But until Bo Yang, a sartorial former Canadian investment banker and commodities trader, was welcomed into the family business to help rethink its business strategy, the brand received an unjustifiably small amount of attention.
There’s so much attention placed on tailoring suits, but the majority of “bespoke” shirts on the market today are still sewn poorly. For Yang, bespoke doesn’t only imply a great fit, it had to be synonymous with the highest level of craftsmanship too. Superlative fabrics, mother-of-pearl buttons, to the shape of the collar and the proportions of the shirt, can be make or break when it comes to the perfect shirt.
Marol is quintessentially Italian and truly the essence of the stylish contemporary man. Its shirts are executed by female artisans over several generations. If you didn’t know where to find your perfect shirt before, well, now you know.
Right Foot Forward
John Lobb is one heritage brand that traces its roots back to the mid-19th century and still remains a family business today. Lobb was an extremely gifted shoemaker. In 1863, he became the bootmaker to the then Prince of Wales and by 1924, he had a steady stream of international clientele, including Hermès, whose harness workshop operated beside Lobb’s own shop on Regent Street.
John Lobb shoes are unmistakably English in tradition, and with 151 years of shoemaking expertise under its belt, there’s no reason not to be. In the bespoke atelier, it takes true dedication from John Lobb shoemakers to create the perfect shoe; a team of at least nine different specialist craftsmen is required to complete a 300-step manufacturing process over the course of six months to hand-make a pair of boots or shoes to the client’s exacting demands.
Something to Howl About
The men are not excluded from Hermès’ silk scarves collection. What’s more, the bestiary on the silk scarves have been further transformed into miniature paintings on the Arceau watch dials. The new “Awooooo!” Arceau watch takes on the motif originally created for the line of men’s scarves and replicates it in all its wild glory through enameling.
A Work of Art
Hermès may have had its beginnings in horse harnesses and bridles, but more ubiquitous today are its silk scarves—it is estimated that one is sold every 25 seconds worldwide. But despite the speed at which the scarves are sold, fast fashion the scarves are not. A single Hermès scarf still takes artisans 18 months to complete. When the Hermès silk scarf was first sold in 1937, it was an immediate hit because it was made from imported Chinese silk that made it stronger than scarves available at the time. They were also rendered in a vibrant array of colors, made in its own factory near Lyon that is still running today as it had all the years before, with the same pride and respect for the meticulous craft.
Next-Gen Suits
There are many forces to be reckoned with in the men’s fashion industry, but one who really deserves the leading title is Alessandro Sartori. Currently the artistic director of Italian luxury giant Ermenegildo Zegna Group with creative power over all Zegna brands and other creative ventures, Sartori is like no one else when it comes to reinventing the codes of menswear tailoring. The designer is known for his obsession over fabrics, his expertise in his sartorial craft and has a knack for marrying traditional tailoring with sportswear tech, refining waterproof and wear-resistant textiles to the lightest of nylon cloths to create his relaxed workwear aesthetics.
Dream Watch
Fashion houses are well wary of the fickle nature of trends, and thus, when they set their minds on creating watch and jewelry lines, popular themes and fads of the day are the last thing on their minds. Instead, smartly so, they turn to their archives and search for lasting inspirations there.
For Dior, the inspiration was genius. Christian Dior was passionate about ball gowns. When the designer arrived in Paris to frequent the French capital’s most avant-garde theme parties, he designed elaborate costumes to match. From this passion, the Dior Grand Bal watch was born in 2011. The centerpiece of the Dior Grand Bal was the oscillating weight, displayed on the dial side like the skirt of the gown fanning out in the wind. The oscillating weight had always provided a great opportunity for the watchmakers at Dior to channel their creativity in, and now with the launch of the Dior Grand Bal Couture “created-to-measure” service, the same creativity is afforded to the maison’s clients.