Every year, Vacheron Constantin picks a piece from its inventory to join the Collection Excellence Platine, a concept the brand introduced in 2006 to dress its most treasured pieces in full platinum. From the 950 platinum case, to the matching dial, the crown, the buckle, even the strap stitching of the watch is threaded in platinum and silk. This year, the understated Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date joins the esteemed collection.
The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date model was launched three years ago in 2017, in both white gold and pink gold. Today’s platinum version comes in the same sizing at 42.5mm wide and 9.7mm thick, and is powered by the same in-house automatic movement, the 2460 R31L calibre with hours, minutes, date with retrograde hand and a precision moon phase indication. Beating at 4Hz, the calibre offers 40 hours of power reserve. All of the function settings are performed via the crown, a great touch that optimises user-friendliness. The platinum watch is limited to 50 pieces only.
The Platinum Look
The change may be in its aesthetics only, but Vacheron Constantin really knows how to make one good-looking timepiece. The platinum dial is sandblasted and matte, a look that is at once traditional and modern, with the large retrograde date display taking up the top half of the dial. There is also a small inscription between 4 and 5 o’clock, “Pt 950,” to denote its material.
The moon-phase disc, admired through an aperture at 6 o’clock, is also in platinum, with a polished surface on the stars and a grained texture for the moon circles to depict the rugged surface of the moon. Graduated from 0 to 29.5, the display counts off the number of days elapsed since the new moon and requires a one-day correction only once every 122 years.
White gold is used minimally for texture: the applied hour-markers on the dial are in 18K white gold, as is the pearl minute-track and the baton-shaped hands. The date pointer is blued for a touch of colour and also to enhance its readability.
Available exclusively in Vacheron Constantin boutiques only, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date in platinum retails for US$67,000. Comparatively, the white gold and rose gold versions are priced at US$40,100. But at 50 limited pieces, and well, platinum, you’re getting something pretty precious in return.
Self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L, hours, minutes, date with retrograde hand, moon phases, power reserve of 40 hours
42.5mm in diameter, 9.7mm thick, 950 platinum, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 30 meters
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with hand-stitching in platinum 950 and silk, matching polished platinum folding clasp in half Maltese cross shape.
Limited to 50 pieces only.