This is where IWC has it won. For a while now because of their e-commerce strategy, the brand has long been ready to ship out their watches with brief lead times from announcements being made.

As a result, even with the uncertainties of whether Watches & Wonders would take place (ahead of the cancellation made by FHH), IWC had a complete set of the 2020 Portugieser collection sent to some of their major markets to share with press and clients. A grand kudos to CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr and his team for managing such a feat. Onward now, to the new collection at hand, which our team got to see in Hong Kong and Singapore, thanks to the aforementioned planning on the brand’s part.

Portugieser Chronograph
Portugieser Chronograph Ref. IW371616 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Chronograph Ref. IW371616 (Image © Revolution)

The Portugieser Chronograph is no stranger to us. In the context of modern IWC’s modern Portugieser collection, it is perhaps the watch that gets the most universal adoration.

Earlier in 2020, IWC has already give us a glimpse into what is new about the Portugieser Chronograph this year, which is the new in-house chronograph calibre that now powers the watch, the IWC manufacture calibre 69355.

On top of the dial variations already shown, IWC is announcing three further additions: steel with green dial, steel again with a maroon dial and, lastly, an 18-carat 5N gold case version with a dial that forms part of larger boutique only Portugieser watches in that 5N gold case and blue dial combination.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 69355; hours, minute and running seconds; chronograph with 30-minute totalizer at 12 o’clock; 46-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

41mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW371615: Stainless steel case, green dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, black alligator strap
• Ref. IW371616: Stainless steel case, maroon dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, black alligator strap
• Ref. IW371614 Boutique Edition: 18-carat 5N gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue calf leather strap

Price starts at: CHF 8,200

The Portugieser Automatic 40
Portugieser Automatic Ref. IW358305 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Automatic Ref. IW358305 (Image © Revolution)

The common denominator for the 2020 Portugieser collection is that all of the watches are now powered by IWC’s own movements.

The Portugieser Automatic 40, is a reduced sized addition to the collection that brings back the purest interpretation of the Portugieser design, with a new in-house movement. The 40.4mm timepiece is powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre and will be available in four dial executions across stainless steel and 5N gold cases.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 82200 with Pellaton automatic winding system; hour, minutes and small hacking seconds; 60-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

40.4mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW358303: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, black alligator strap
• Ref. IW358304: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, blue hands and appliques, blue alligator leather strap
• Ref. IW358305: Stainless steel case, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, black alligator strap
• Ref. IW358306: 18K 5N gold case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, brown alligator leather strap by Santoni Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides

Price starts at: CHF 7,500

Portugieser Automatic

Alongside the Automatic 40, we also get new dial variations of the existing Portugieser Automatic, with one in steel paired with the marron dial and the second a 5N gold boutique exclusive with the blue dial.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 52010 with Pellaton automatic winding system; hour, minutes and small hacking seconds; 168-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

42. 3mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW500714: Stainless steel case, maroon dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, black alligator strap
• Ref. IW500713 Boutique Edition: 18-carat 5N gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue calf leather strap

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Ref. IW344202 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Ref. IW344202 (Image © Revolution)

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 is a completely new addition to the family. The watch features a traditional three sub-dial layout with date at 3 o’clock, integrated month and moon phase at 6 o’clock, and integrated day and leap year indicator at 9 o’clock.

The complication is made possible by the freshly minted IWC manufacture calibre 82650, which has required IWC to integrate the perpetual calendar complication into a movement from the 82000 family of calibres, for the very first time. Quick bragging right for the movement is that its moon phase remains accurate to the moon’s actual orbit for 577.5 years before it deviates by one day. And number two, all of the watch’s functions are adjustable directly using its crown, much like the incredible perpetual calendar that Kurt Klaus originally created for IWC.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 82650 with Pellaton automatic winding system; hour, minutes and hacking seconds; perpetual calendar with date, day, month, leap year and perpetual moon phase; 60-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

42.4mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW344203: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, black alligator strap by Santoni
• Ref. IW344202: 18-carat 5N gold case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, brown alligator leather strap by Santoni
• Ref. IW344205 Boutique Edition: 18-carat 5N gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue calf leather strap

Price starts at: CHF 23,000

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar

Again a watch that is no stranger to us, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. For 2020 the watch is getting a variation added that joins the line-up of boutique exclusives in the theme of the 18-carat 5N gold case with the blue dial.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 52610 with Pellaton automatic winding system; hours and minutes; small hacking seconds; perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase; 168-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

44.2mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW503312 Boutique Exclusive: 18-carat 5N gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue calf leather strap

Price: CHF 38,000

Boutique edition version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Image © Revolution)
Boutique edition version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide
Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Ref. IW344001 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Ref. IW344001 (Image © Revolution)

This year’s headliner for IWC is the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. As its name suggests, the watch features a moon phase indicator and the brand’s newly developed tide display complication.

Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Ref. IW344001 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Ref. IW344001 (Image © Revolution)

The complication starts with the indication at 6 o’clock, which shows the expected times for the next low or high tide. The tide time indicator is complimented by IWC’s double moon indicator at 12 o’clock that’s now enhanced on the Yacht Club Moon & Tide to show spring and neap tides, on top of tracking the moon phase in the northern and southern hemisphere.
Neap tides occur after the first or third quarters of the moon when the difference between high and low tide is at its least. Spring tides on the other hand occur just over the full moon and new moon period when the difference between high and low tides are at their greatest. For this new complication IWC has issued the automatic calibre 82835, with 60-hour power reserve.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 82835 with Pellaton automatic winding system; hour, minutes and hacking seconds; perpetual moon phase for the northern and southern hemispheres – display for spring tide or neap tide – tide display with the time of the next high and low tide – date display; 60-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

44.6mm; water-resistant to 60m

• Ref. IW344001: 18-carat 5N gold case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Price: CHF 35,000

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph New Executions

Three new variations of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph are being launched at the same time on bracelets for the first time. Two instances are in all steel, while the third instance is in bi-material 18-carat 5N gold and stainless steel.

The movement featured in these pieces is the automatic IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback chronograph function and date.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 89361 with Pellaton automatic winding system; hour, minutes and small seconds; flyback chronograph with hour and minute totalizer at 12 o’clock; date; 68-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

44.6mm; water-resistant to 60m

• Ref. IW390701: Stainless steel case, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, stainless steel bracelet
• Ref. IW390702: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, blue hands and appliques, stainless steel bracelet
• Ref. IW390703: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, 18-carat 5N gold and stainless steel bracelet

Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph
Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Ref. IW394006 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Ref. IW394006 (Image © Revolution)

New for 2020 also are two variations of the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. The timepiece features a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and a retrograde date display at 9 o’clock. Its calibre 89900 even accounts for a chronograph function with a 12-hour and 60-minute totalizer at 12 o’clock.

Both versions of the watch will be available as a limited edition of 50 pieces each with the 18-carat Armor Gold® variation only available at IWC’s own boutiques.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 89900; hours and minutes; minute tourbillon; chronograph with hour and minute totalizer at 12 o’clock; retrograde date; 68-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

43.5mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW394005 Boutique Edition: 18-carat Armor Gold® case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, 18-carat gold oscillating weight, blue calf leather strap
• Ref. IW394006: Platinum case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, 18-carat gold oscillating weight, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni

Price starts at: CHF 105,000

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Ref. IW504505 (Image © Revolution)
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Ref. IW504505 (Image © Revolution)

While not completely new, IWC is giving the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon two new variations with one in 18-carat Armor Gold® case, and the second in platinum. Both watches will be issued in a limited run of 50 pieces with the 18-carat Armor Gold® variation only available in at the brand’s boutiques.

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon is enabled by the IWC-manufactured 51950 calibre, which required IWC to rework the perpetual calendar mechanism in order to accommodate the tourbillon at 12 o’clock and integrate the familiar moon phase into the 6 o’clock sub dial that also holds the month indicator. Word of note, the moon phase on the 51950 is one that will – once set right – only require a one day correction after 577.5 years.

Technical Specifications

Movement

Self-winding IWC-manufacture Calibre 51950; hours and minutes; perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase; flying minute tourbillon at 12 o‘clock; 168-hour power reserve

Cases, Dials & Straps

45mm; water-resistant to 30m

• Ref. IW504504 Boutique Edition: 18-carat Armor Gold® case, blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat gold appliques, 18-carat gold oscillating weight, blue calf leather strap
• Ref. IW504505: Platinum case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, 18-carat gold oscillating weight, blue alligator leather strap by Santoni

Price start at: CHF 115,000

*All 5N gold and blue dial boutique editions are meant to be supplied with a woven calf leather strap further into the year; customers purchasing boutique editions early from date of will first receive their watches on an elegant alligator leather strap