IWC Schaffhausen
A Star Reborn — IWC Announces Its Collection Focus for 2017
IWC Schaffhausen
A Star Reborn — IWC Announces Its Collection Focus for 2017
A watch created because of, rather than in spite of, the quartz crisis, it was the lack of demand for mechanical movements that afforded Klaus the time to develop such a complex calibre.
According to IWC: “It was a watch that rose, phoenix-like, out of the ashes of the old watch industry and heralded the renaissance of complicated mechanical watches. Probably no other single watch has come so close to embodying the IWC brand and its values.”
Revising the Da Vinci line for the first time since 2007, it would be unthinkable for IWC to omit this gem of a watch in the new line-up.
The biggest problem facing the contemporary watchmakers involved in the redesign was increased clarity. With IWC’s usual perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 52610, the moonphase is at 12 o’clock; placing the chronograph’s hour and minute counters here would mean the hands cut through the moonphase disc.
The maison’s 89360 chronograph calibre, however, left no room for a moonphase. As a result, the Calibre 89630 has been completely reworked to allow the chronograph’s hour and minute counters to be combined with a stylish moonphase in a sub-dial at 12 o’clock — the first watch in the company’s catalogue to do this.
The dial of the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is certainly well-balanced, thanks in large part to the deep blue colour of the moonphase and totaliser at 12. Both silvered and slate-grey dials look clear and uncluttered with a central blue flyback chronograph hand operated by two push buttons.
The perpetual calendar gives date, month and day of the week on sub-dials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock respectively, while a window at 8 o’clock shows the four-digit year display. The large articulated lugs ensure a good fit even on even smaller wrists. Folding clasps and beautiful Santoni leather straps finish the stylish look.
And what does Kurt Klaus think about the reinterpretation of his masterpiece? According to Christian Knoop, Creative Director at IWC Schaffhausen: “He loves it!”
Movement: Automatic IWC-manufactured Calibre 89630 with red-gold rotor; 68-hour power reserve; small hacking seconds; flyback chronograph with totaliser; perpetual calendar with displays for date, day, month, four-digit year and moonphase
Case: 43mm red-gold case with silvered dial or 43mm stainless-steel case with slate-coloured dial; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Santoni alligator-leather strap
Da Vinci Automatic Moonphase 36
Movement: Automatic IWC-manufactured Calibre 35800; 42-hour power reserve; central hacking seconds; moonphase
Case: 36mm red-gold case with sliver-plated dial or 36mm stainless-steel case with sliver-plated dial; stainless-steel comes in a version with 54 diamonds set on the case; water-resistant to 30m
Strap: Santoni alligator-leather strap
Da Vinci Automatic 36
Movement: Automatic IWC-manufactured Calibre 35111; 42-hour power reserve; central hacking seconds; date display
Case: 36mm red-gold case with sliver-plated dial or 36mm stainless-steel case with sliver-plated dial; both case-types come in versions with 54 diamonds set on the case; water-resistant to 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Choice of Santoni alligator-leather strap or matching metal bracelet